High-performance escapement system with "triple chute" protection

Floating lugs maximize wrist comfort

There may be thousands of companies named after their founders no longer exist. In most cases, this is simply because the founder dies or the company is sold to investors who retain the name. Sometimes these names become part of a combined brand name, such as aircraft manufacturer McDonnell Douglas.

McDonald Douglas was born from a merger between two companies named after their founders. The new company operated for 30 years before merging with Boeing, when these names disappeared from commercial history (although the Boeing logo still exists). Other examples see a company named after the company whose founder was acquired: the name disappeared as a separate business unit, but was created under a new ownership umbrella.

A good example is the Gérald Genta series from Bulgari, a set of timepieces that continued the legacy of this great designer after his company was acquired by Bulgari in 2000. These works are in line with what Genta has been creating in aesthetics and themes, but Genta is no longer part of this process. In the same year, Bulgari also acquired Daniel Roth, a brand of the same name named after the master watchmaker located in Yeouido.

This means that Daniel Roth's styling and technical achievements can be incorporated into Bulgari timepieces. Over the years, they must have found some incredible works. Unlike most Genta series, Roth's design elements and mechanical features are fully integrated with Bulgari's design and development, creating a fusion of Daniel Roth and Bulgari.

Bulgari Octo Roma Central Tourbillon Papillon

Therefore, Daniel Roth continues to stay at Bulgari, one of its latest achievements is Bulgari Octo Roma Central Tourbillon Papillon, which is an incredible watch that showcases the results of a combination of business and design creativity.

The Octo Roma Central Tourbillon Papillon is an excellent time jumping watch with a satellite minute display and a central tourbillon that is difficult to design. The dial is formatted around the Papillon design derived from Roth and has two elongated hexagonal hands that rotate around the dial every two hours. These hands span the 60-minute scale and unfold around the lower half of the large flying tourbillon in the center of the dial.

Bulgari Octo Roma Central Tourbillon Papillon

There is a small window at the top of the dial that shows the number of hours, all of which are 24 hours. This less common form of time jumping is actually a 24-hour clock, allowing the observer to know at a glance whether it is day or night.

The last sign is the power reserve cut on the base of the movement, just below some hollows at the top of the mainspring and gear train, leading to the tourbillon. It can be seen on the back of the watch.

Bulgari Octo Roma Central Tourbillon Papillon

The bottom plate is processed with sun patterns surrounding gems, pivots and counterbores scattered on the bottom plate. The movement that could have been quite clean and soft is contrary to the classic finish, but it feels modern and vibrant.

The dial is almost the same as the first Bulgari Papillon Tourbillon Central to adopt this design.

Octo Roma Central Tourbillon Papillon is essentially the Papillon Tourbillon Central released in 2015, but the movement has been updated in the Octo Roma case. This may seem like a simple model update, but it requires more than just throwing an action into a new case. The dial is visually similar, but in the previous version, it was housed in a tonneau-shaped case (the easily recognizable Daniel Roth case). It's completely round now. This is a small change from the previous one, but when you compare the actions, it changes more.

The previous movement of the Papillon Tourbillon Central is the BVL 266, which is a tonneau-shaped movement with different hollows, non-uniform processing patterns, smooth parts with all information engraving, and-the biggest visual difference-power Store indicator. The indication is initially oriented vertically and set in the fan-shaped cut. The scale is engraved on a triangular bridge that also supports the axis of rotation of the power reserve pointer.

Bulgari Octo Roma Central Tourbillon Papillon Calibre BVL 332 visible on the back

The new Calibre BVL 332 is circular, and the indicator is rotated 90 degrees clockwise, removing the fan shape and replacing it with a semicircle. The hollow is cleaner, and the hand and the scale are supported separately, so that the power reserve is smaller but more intentionally placed in the movement.

Combining the changes of repositioning and hollowing, moving the information engraving to the edge of the movement and keeping the center clean, this movement seems to have understood some of the shortcomings of the previous design and made it work better with the circle.

Bulgari Octo Roma Central Tourbillon Papillon

But the important thing is that nothing has changed, that is the awesome Papillon design and the central tourbillon. The minutes are still indicated by two diamond-shaped hands, which are rotated 90 degrees at the beginning of the hour to point to the minute scale. At the end of the hour, the one that left the scale again rotates 90 degrees, putting itself into the rotating disk, and making the one on the opposite side the hand of the next hour. This is a very interesting way to add style and mechanical interest to the dial.

The most important thing is the centrally mounted flying tourbillon, a feature that usually makes the movement more difficult to design in terms of gear train layout. However, as the minutes are displayed, it allows the central pivot of the traditional pointer to be removed because the mechanism can be moved more to the periphery, allowing the flying tourbillon to rotate in the center.

Bulgari Octo Roma Central Tourbillon Papillon

I like time-jumping mechanisms, especially those that are not covered by the minute hand at any time. The jumping disc is mounted on a ceramic ball bearing, so it can be used for decades.

Its special feature is that it is a 24-hour indicator, so the disk allows to know the whole day cycle at any time. For most people, this seems to be a small problem, but I like it when you can know whether it is morning or evening by just looking at the current time (thus getting rid of morning and afternoon). It also has an additional benefit, which is to teach those who have not spent time in the military how to use the 24-hour clock to calculate time.

Bulgari Octo Roma Central Tourbillon Papillon

I think the decision to redo the movement for the Octa Roma case is a great move, because this shape has proven to be very popular in Bulgari. The original Daniel Roth barrel shape is definitely much more classic, which can reduce the interest of modern Bulgari collectors.

However, Daniel Roth's pedigree is what this watch really sells to me, especially when combined with Bulgari's aesthetics. Unfortunately, it is far beyond my price range, but fortunately, for collectors, this is not a limited edition, it is available to those looking for watches of this caliber and design history.

Bulgari Octo Roma Central Tourbillon Papillon

The aesthetics are so interesting and mechanically interesting; it is one of the best watches from Bulgari, it is not an ultra-thin world record holder. This is no problem for me!

Now let us take this opportunity to break it down!

For more information, please visit www.bulgari.com.

A quick look at Bulgari Octo Roma Central Tourbillon Papillon Case: 41mm, Rose Gold Movement: Manual Winding Calibre BVL 332, Central Flying One-minute Tourbillon, 60-Hour Power Reserve, 21,600 vph/3 Hz Frequency Function: Time Jumping , 24-hour indication, satellite minutes, seconds (tourbillon); power reserve price: $129,000

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